FlowerBarb's Houseplant Tips
The Basics:
1. Water
Most plants DO NOT like to have wet feet. Over-watering plants is probably the main reason a plant dies. A rule-of-thumb is to water when the top 1/2 to 1 inches of soil feel dry. When water drips from the bottom of the pot, your plant has enough. The higher the temperature in the room, and the smaller the pot, the more often you will have to water. Generally if you have a consistent schedule of watering--the same amount on every two, three, or however many days it takes before the plant is dry again, you will be fine. Water with room temperature (lukewarm) water. Water that is too hot or too cold can send your plants into shock. Never use water that has been soften by a home unit because the salt can kill your plants. You shouldn't use water that is too "hard" either, since the calcium can also damage plants. If you have "hard" water, let it stand 12-15 hours before using it on your plants. For extremely hard water, hang a small bag of shredded peat in the water (about an ounce per quart) for 12-15 hours. If you live in a non-industrial area, rain water is always a good bet.
Humidity (the water in the air) is also important to many plants. To be sure your plant has the humidity it needs (and some do need more than others) you can mist (do not get water on fuzzy-leaved plants like African Violets however), group your plants so they create their own "mini-climate", set plants in a pebble-filled tray or container with a small amount of water so that the evaporation provides the air with moisture (don't have the water so deep that the bottom of the pot is in water). You
can even give your plants a "shower". Just cover the soil with plastic so the roots don't get water-logged.
2. Temperature
Plants can't handle temperatures that are too hot or too cold for very long We tend to keep our houses too hot in the winter for most house plants. DON'T put your plants by a heat source or in front of the air conditioner. Winter drafts can harm plants too close to outside doors and open windows. The best place to keep plants in the winter is in a hallway (away from drafts) or an unused room where the heat isn't kept on. Of course we want our plants to enhance our living area, so this may not be desirable for all plants. If you use "tough" plants for decorating--that is, plants that can take harder conditions--you can keep your more fragile plants tucked away safely where the heat and dryness of our modern homes don't harm them.
When the weather gets warmer and there is no danger of frost, your houseplants can be put outside, but NOT in the direct sun (generally mid-May until the end of September is when your house plants can take their "vacation"). Under a tree, on a covered porch, or in the shade of an awning will do fine for your plants. They shouldn't be where hot winds can dry them
out or blow them over. Be sure to keep watering and misting them!
3. Light
Most plants do best
in indirect light (electric lamps, east or north windows). Even the plants
that love sun can't be kept in a south window too
long. Plants can sun-burn too! Click on the direction for a list of plants that
can thrive in that window. windows. East,
West, North, South.
4. Soil
A good potting soil is a must. You can even find soils made specifically for specific plants. If you would like to try to make your own potting soil, these "recipes" can be used. If you know the type of soil your plant needs (sandy, light, heavy, etc.), you adjust the proportions accordingly.
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2 parts peat substitute or leaf mould, 1 part grit. 3 parts loam 1/2 part garden compost. |
Mix these three basic ingredients in the proportion that feels "right" for your plant: 1. plain sterile black nutrient rich soil, 2. organic materials such as peat moss or bark to hold water in the container plant, 3. material that will help drain water away from the top of the plant such as perlite, sand, grit. |
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Loam should be pasteurized for seed sowing. Pasteurization kills weed seeds and most pests and diseases while retaining a level of essential micro-organisms which can help suppress diseases and iron out slight nutrient imbalances. Heat to 200°F for 30 minutes. DO NOT do this to the final mixture. Only the soil should be pasteurized. |
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Whenever you pot a plant, be sure the soil has good drainage. A few pebbles or clay pot shards at the bottom of the pot should do the trick. Eventually you will need to repot most of your plants. Some perform better when "root-bound" however, so check on what your plant prefers. Since it is difficult to repot very large plants, every few years, "top dress" them. This is merely removing as much of the old soil as possible from the pot, being careful not to disturb any parts of the plant, and replacing it with fresh potting soil.
Other things to know:
1. Bugs: Spider mites, aphids, scale insects, thripes, mealy bugs--there is a whole world of hungry little critters wanting to feast on your plants. If you see signs that some have taken up residence, isolate that plant immediately! Mix two drops of liquid soap in eight ounces of warm water and spray the plant and soil heavily. Remove all the damaged foliage. Repeat as needed. Some folks recommend a spray mix of 1/10 beer or skimmed milk and 9/10 cold water. If you smoke, try soaking 5-10 cigarette butts in water, strain the water the next day, add a shot of alcohol (rubbing), and a drop or two of dish soap. You can spray or brush on the mix. This is very poisonous, so don't let the kids get near it! Fly paper attracts whiteflies, so you can lay a piece on the soil around your plant to snare them.
2. Fungi: A plant with mold, black, spot, mildew, rust, or one of the many fungi is almost impossible to cure. Some fungi spores can lay dormant for years in the soil, then suddenly appear. There are fungicides (ask at your garden center), but perhaps your best bet is to get rid of the plant and start over. (Another reason to sterilize or pasteurize loan when you make your own potting soil.) Mildew ( a type of fungus) may be controlled by removing the affected leaves.
3. Bacterial Infections: A plant can become infected when you water it, if you take a cutting using a knife or shears that haven't been disinfected, by mingling with cuttings you brought in from a friend. Isolate the plant at once! Sorry, but the best thing you can do it throw away the plant, pot, and soil.
4. Viruses: Almost impossible to cure, if your plants get infected, you need to toss them out.
5. Feeding plants: Some people never feed their plants and have lush, healthy specimens. Other people have
a regular schedule of feeding, and have good luck with commercially prepared fertilizers--liquid, granular, plant sticks, etc.
Still others depend on home-made plant food: eggshells soaked in water (then use the liquid to water your plants), a bit of
vinegar in the water for acid soil-loving plants, mineral water that has lost its fizz, black coffee or tea--cooled to room temperature, egg shells dried in the oven and crushed in your blender, the cooled unsalted water left over after you’ve cooked and drained your fresh vegetables, or dried used coffee grounds (also adds acid to the soil). If you are doing everything else right (light, humidity, water, temperature) and your plant doesn't seem to be thriving, perhaps you need to give it a supplement. A N-P-K fertilizer covers most deficiencies.
6. Over-Feeding: When the minerals in fertilizer build up in the soil of your plants, it can be harmful. Look for a white, grainy layer of excess minerals in the soil or the pot. To remedy this, you can put the pot in the sink under slowly running water until thoroughly saturated. The excess minerals will "leach" out of the soil through the hole in the bottom of the pot. Some people place the pot to its rim in water (not covering the soil) and let it stand until the soil is saturated. Either way, let the pot drain well before returning it to its place. You will not have to water it for a while after this treatment!
7. Deadheading: Most houseplants only bloom once a year, and there isn't any way to make them bloom more often, but you can extend the blooming period if you remove the spent blossoms from the plant.
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